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Asia, India, Uttar Pradesh, Western Garhwal, Trisul I, Attempt

Trisul I, Attempt. Three years after a previous attempt, Iñaki Ruiz, Jesus Gómez and I returned to try Trisul I again. Our climbing style was simple: alpine-style, no fixed ropes, three high camps and two altitude tents for those three camps.

We arrived in Delhi on September 1, and reached Ghat on September 14. On September 19, we arrived at Sutol. After two rainy days, we pitched CI at 5000 meters, then returned to BC on September 22. After four more days of bad weather, we climbed up to CI on September 27. The next day we crossed the glacier through deep snow and after six hours we arrived at CII (5800m), 100 meters below the col. On October 2, we started for the final push from CI. On October 3, we reached CII in deep snow. The next day we climbed eight pitches (45-55°) from the col up to CIII (6300m). We set up camp in a narrow crevasse. The expedition was then called off due to bad weather.

On October 12 we departed for Ghat with 13 porters, arriving there two days later.

Eduardo Gómez Telletxea, Basque Country, Spain