American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Middle East, Iran, Alum Kuh, Ascents, and Insights into Iranian Climbing

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Alum Kuh, Ascents, and Insights into Iranian Climbing. In September, Leyla Pope, a Briton with dual British/Iranian nationality, organized an expedition to Iran to explore the climbing of Alum Kuh. As guests of the Iran Mountaineering Federation, the three women that joined her—Kath Pyke, Glenda Huxter and Celia Bull—comprised one of the first Western climbing teams to be invited into Iran since the revolution some two decades earlier. The four women spent a number of days in the Alum Kuh area, during which time Pyke and Huxter climbed the 1964 Iranian-German Amralaiy-Rost route, and Bull and Pope, along with several extra teams from the Federation, climbed the classic 1936 North Ridge route. In exchange for being hosted by the Iranian Mountaineering Federation, the Britons ran a climbing skills workshop for some 20 women climbers selected from Iran’s 24 provinces. Pyke’s insights on the trip appear in an article earlier in this journal.

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