American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Tierra del Fuego, Argentine Patagonia, Aguja Mermoz, Vela y Viento

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Aguja Mermoz, Vela y Viento. Kurt Albert and Bernd Arnold (G) climbed a new route on the east buttress of Aguja Mermoz that they named Vela y Viento (5.12 b/c ED, 500m). They finished on January 9, after several weeks of attempts with the use of fixed ropes. This line was previously attempted in 1993 by Topher Donahue and Kennan Harvey (U.S.), who climbed to within 20 meters of the summit ridge but were forced to retreat due to a very iced-up chimney. The route features well-bolted anchors and bolts next to cracks (Harvey and Donahue had climbed much of the same line without placing bolts or using fixed ropes).

Rolando Garibotti, Club Andino Bariloche, Argentina

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