American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Tierra del Fuego, Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Fitz Roy, Royal Flush

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Cerro Fitz Roy, Royal Flush. In February, 1999, Peter Janschek and I did the third ascent of Royal Flush on Fitz Roy. After fixing six pitches, we stayed three days on the wall. Kurt Albert and Bernd Arnold, who put up Royal Flush, ended their route on the Swiss Edge, which is the top of a pillar right on the arête between the east and the north faces of Fitz Roy. On the Swiss Edge, Royal Flush meets up with El Corazon. Albert and Arnold did not climb higher than the Swiss Edge, so we had climbed all 34 pitches of Royal Flush. When continuing on El Corazon to the top, we only managed to climb two-and-a-half more pitches before a strong storm hit us 150 meters below the summit and forced us to abseil.

Heinz Zak, Austria

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