American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Tierra del Fuego, Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Torre, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Cerro Torre, Attempt. On my latest experience in Patagonia, Maurizio Giarolli and I made an attempt on a new route on Cerro Torre via the northeast pillar and the center of the north face. Unfortunately, bad weather only allowed us to put up a difficult but secure variation along the lower part of the northeast pillar as far as the 1959 Egger-Maestri traverse, halfway up the Torre. We made several attempts in November, then, from December 4-9, managed 520 meters (11 pitches) at up to ED 5.10 A1/2. Conditions were not good and cracks were choked with snow. In normal conditions it would be possible to climb all the aid sections free. Then, in extreme and dangerous conditions, we continued 150 meters halfway along the Egger-Maestri 1959 traverse and then, with another three rope lengths, to part-way up the north face under a continual bombardment of fragments from the ice mushrooms.

Elio Orlandi, Italy

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.