American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Tierra del Fuego, Chilean Patagonia, Aleta del Tiburon, East Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Aleta del Tiburon, East Face. From January 15 to 25, in the Valle del Frances, Esteban Chacon (Chile) and Hubert van Ham (Dutch) established Game Over, Man! and Pa’la Casa (“Go Home”) on the east face of Aleta del Tiburon. The following notes are from Hubert’s report. “On January 16, we climbed nine pitches on the south ridge until being blocked by a steep and compact section just under the first (lower) summit. The grade of this route is about 5.7/5.8, with a very nice seventh pitch through a crack. We named the route Game Over, Man! The second route was climbed on January 20, a perfect day with no wind. Leaving Campamento Britanico at 4 a.m., we walked around the west face until arriving at steepening slabs above a glacier. From this point the two summits can be seen (and seem really close). Not having crampons, we did four traversing pitches toward the northeast above the glacier to arrive at the starting point. We started climbing this traverse, which had good rock but little protection, at 7:30 a.m. The next 12 pitches went straight to the summit. The first of these was especially beautiful on slabs with fine cracks. The last four pitches to the summit are steeper on better rock, though still with little protection. A very nice line then leads straight to the top. We arrived on the summit at 2:30 p.m. We rappelled the west face from 3 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. and arrived at Campamento Britanico at 12:30 a.m. We named the route Pa’la Casa (5.8, 16 pitches).”

Hernan Jofre, Amerindia Concept, Chile

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