American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Cordillera de la Totora, Cerro Campanario, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Cerro Campanario, Attempt. In January, Diego Iglesias, Diego Socolinsky and Gabriel Brenta attempted Cerro Campanario (ca. 5400m), a rock spire they had tried in 1992 via Yellow Pipi, a difficult route first climbed in 1986. On their latest attempt, Camp II was established at 3700 meters, the last place with water. The next camp was at the base of the glacier. They discovered a dihedral in the southeast pillar, which they reached after climbing the glacier and a couloir (55°). They climbed seven pitches (6a A2) but were turned back two easy rope lengths short of the summit by the lateness of the hour and the fact that they did not have bivy gear.

Marcelo Scanu, Buenos Aires, Argentina

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