American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Apolobamba, Milluni Valley, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Milluni Valley, Various Ascents. Slovenian Branko Ivanek, a La Paz resident and guide, made a number of probable first ascents of icefalls in the Milluni Valley, south of Huayna Potosí. On July 23, with Bolivian guide Marco Soria, he climbed an 80-meter icefall on Pico Milluni in five-and-a-half hours. Starting at 4940 meters, the route, which they called Amistad, was two pitches (UIAA IV, max. 90°) on ice five to ten centimeters thick. To the right of Amistad are two other icefall routes, Branco Blues (III/5) and Bolivian Journeys (III/4+), climbed by Neil Brodie (U.K.) and Patrick Berthet (France) on June 13.

Yossi Brain, United Kingdom

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