AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Pisco West, East Face, Canadian Non-Direct

Pisco West, East Face, Canadian Non-Direct. In May, Chris Geisler and I established the route Canadian Non-Direct (5.9 WI 4+ 90°, 400m) on the east face of Pisco West (5752m) in 12 hours. (This face was climbed in 1977 by John Bouchard and Marie Meunier directly to the summit via the “easiest line.” The ascent was not reported at the time.–Ed) The ascent featured mixed climbing to the left-hand edge of the snowfield in the center of the east face. We then traversed the snowfield to its right edge. Mixed climbing amongst strange snow clumps was followed to the base of the summit snow cap. One pitch of vertical snow took us to the summit. Descent was made via the standard route.

Sean Easton, Canada