American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Ecuador, Cotopaxi, Northeast Face, New Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Cotopaxi, Northeast Face, New Route. From February 28 to March 1, Gaspard Naverette, Jurg U Umlaut and Gabriel Llano climbed a new route on the northeast face of Cotopaxi (5897m). From the refuge, the three traversed eastward around the mountain for three hours, crossing three ridges to reach camp. They then headed up, summiting after seven hours, having picked their way through innumerable crevasses, some of which had to be descended into and then climbed out of. Said Llano: “It’s a different mountain from that side—you never see Yanasacha (the landmark rock outcrop on the north face to the left of the normal route).”

Yossi Brain, United Kingdom

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