American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, Lemon Mountains, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Lemon Mountains, Various Ascents. The Cumbria East Greenland Expedition members (Steve Brailey, Pete Dawson, Jeff Haslam, Chris Cookson, Ian Cousins, Colin Dulson, Gwyn Lewis, Dave Wilson, and Keith Miller) flew from Glasgow to Iceland and then by ski plane to Greenland, landing on a glacier in the southern area of the Lemon Mountains on July 18. Despite unusually unsettled weather, the team completed a number of first ascents in the area around Base Camp (960m; 31° 52' W, 68° 25.5' N) over the next two and a half weeks. There were a total of 12 days when it rained at some time, on two occasions for over 36 hours. Glacier conditions were also generally poor. A number of expedition members fell through snow bridges into crevasses while exploring and climbing around Base Camp, and also on the trek out.

New peaks and routes climbed were: Thunder Road (31° 30' W, 68° 26' N), Dome de Jenel (31° 58' W, 68° 24.6' N), Isobelar (31° 54' W, 68° 25.8' N), Laurenar (31° 48' W, 68° 23.9' N), the South Summit of Mjeslen (31° 47' W, 68° 27' N) via the southwest ridge, Eljam (31° 50' W, 68° 23.6' N) by two different routes, Lilevat (31° 46' W, 68° 24' N), and Icon Peak (32° 01' W, 68° 25.5' N). There were also two unsuccessful attempts on Crystal Peak (31° 52' W, 68° 26.2' N).

On August 4, the team journeyed for six days out to the coastal airstrip at Sodalen. During the latter part of this trek, two members revisited part of the area explored in their 1994 expedition. They were interested and alarmed to note many examples of considerable glacial retreat.

Steve Brailey, Cockermouth Mountain Rescue Team

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