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North America, Greenland, Northeast Greenland, Petermanns Bjerg, Ascents

Petermanns Bjerg, Ascents. On June 11, Paul Walker landed a climbing party on an unnamed glacier beneath the unclimbed north face of Petermanns Bjerg (2933m) at 73°N in Fraenkels Land. The group established Base Camp and began their assault on as many new peaks in the area as time and conditions would allow. Characteristic of northeast Greenland, superb weather persisted for three weeks, and a total of 35 ascents were made, of which 30 are believed to be first ascents of previously unclimbed summits. The fifth ascent of Petermanns Bjerg was made via the south ridge on June 15 and was followed by ascents of Lille Petermanns Bjerg (2675m), Kalifbjerg (2632m), Kerberus (2564m), Trappebjerg (2520m), the twin peaks of Baselfjeld (2668m and 2585m), and Gog (2651m). The earlier expeditions of 1929, 1951, 1977 and 1985 had all sailed into the fjords and trekked for several days to reach Petermanns Bjerg. Consequently, time was always short and very little else in the region had ever been climbed. As a result, the group had the enviable pleasure of climbing many of the fine peaks of significance in the region. Climbing conditions were excellent, due both to the stability of the snow and ice at this latitude and the settled weather and 24-hour daylight. One of the most notable ascents was a 600-meter rock climb by Phil Cann and expedition doctor Rod Lindenbaum, who made the first ascent of the northwest face of Kerberus during a 20-hour climb.

James Gregson, Alpine Club