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North America, Canada, British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Babel, East Face, Free Ascent

Mt. Babel, East Face, Free Ascent. In August, John Culberson and I made the first American ascent of the East Face of Mt. Babel in the Canadian Rockies. This grade IV limestone wall has seen few ascents overall, and fewer yet as a free route. It was first climbed with aid sections by Bobby Greenwood in 1969. It was freed in 1992 by John Marshall at 5.11b, also the style in which we climbed it.

The mountain hovers over Consolation Valley, a short hike from Moraine Lake. The route is steep enough that a rock gently lobbed from the top hits the talus without a bounce on the way down. The rock is reasonable limestone with good protection at the hard parts.

David Turner