American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Kluane National Park Reserve, Mt. Logan, South Face Attempt, and Mt. King George, Lauchlan Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Mt. Logan, South Face Attempt, and Mt. King George, Lauchlan Ridge. John Chilton, Rich Prohaska and I went to the St. Elias Mountains with the help of the John Lauchlan Award to climb the south face of Mt. Logan. We drove to Kluane Lake and waited for 11 days before the weather allowed us to fly into the mountains. We made three attempts during this time.

Our plan was to climb the east ridge to acclimatize and to leave a fuel and food stash at the top of the south face. We made an ABC at the base of the east ridge and waited another five storm days. We decided to go back to Base Camp and eat Base Camp food and waited another six days, one of which was spent retrieving ABC.

Twenty-three days into the trip, we decided to pull the plug on the south face. Our new goal was the unclimbed west ridge of King George, some 30 kilometers away. We spent three days climbing the Lauchlan Ridge (5.9 WI3, 6,000'), and then down climbing the south ridge. Two days later, we flew out to Kluane Lake.

Jia Condon, Canada

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