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North America, United States, Alaska, Wrangell-St. Elias Range, Peak 10,522', Ascent

Peak 10,522', Ascent. On May 29, Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air flew me into the upper Chisana Glacier at around 8,300 feet on the southeast side of this mountain. I was climbing alone since I had been unable to locate a climbing partner. In early April, I had been in this same area with Howard Mozen to attempt Peak 10,522' and others, but we were unsuccessful due to high winds and snow.

I immediately donned skis and headed up toward the 9,200-foot col due east of the summit. Here I kicked off the skis and donned crampons. I followed this eastern ridge, which was fairly easy until a couple of hundred feet from the summit, where a large serac was separating from the summit block. There was a large crevasse that skirted the whole summit block with an overhanging ice wall on the uphill side. I crossed the crevasse on the far right and stayed on the ridge crest around the serac wall. This offered some nice 40-60° climbing on snow and ice for 60 feet or so with 3,000 feet of exposure down the northeast face. Above this it was an easy walk to the summit. I first saw this peak from the summit of the Presidents Chair in 1993. Peak 10,522' resembles Mt. Deborah of the Alaska Range and I had referred to it as “Little Deborah” since that initial sighting. I believe this was the first ascent of the peak.

Danny W. Kost