American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grant Teton, Second Tower, New Route, and Mount Moran, South Face, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Grand Teton, Second Tower, New Route, and Mount Moran, South Face, Various Ascents. In August, I made roped solo ascents of two new routes in the Tetons. The first was the Central Dihedral (IV 5.10+/ 5.11-) on the south face of the Second Tower. The line follows the large dihedral to the right of the Tower Two Chute. I first attempted the line with Jeff Wilson, but we were stormed off after the first pitch. The second route (IV 5.10X) is located on the south buttress of Mt. Moran between the Deliverance and Habeler variations. It starts to the right of Deliverance, below the fourth-class step on the second ramp in the large dihedral arcing to the right, and ends near the end of the Grand Traverse pitch on the South Buttress Right route. It takes a standard rack to 4".

In late July, Jim Beyer and I made the second ascent of a route Jim had done earlier that month. The South Buttress Drifter is 150 feet right of South Buttress Central and 500 feet left of South Buttress Left. It goes all free with lots of 5.10 and is 12 pitches long.

John Kelly, unaffiliated

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