American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Moran, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Mount Moran, Various Ascents. In July, I soloed South Buttress Drifter (V 5.10c) on the South Buttress of Mt. Moran. The route weaves through roof bands 150 feet right of the South Buttress Right. Three days and five nights were spent putting in this classic. Three bolts were placed.

In October, I soloed Whirl of Hate (VI 5.10 A4) on the south buttress of Moran. This is the first VI and the first big wall route in the range. Seven days and 14 nights were spent on the route in stormy weather. I was pinned down by a snow and ice storm for four days near the top of the route. The route starts to the right of Deliverance and crosses South Buttress Right at the Grand Traverse. I nailed (A4) the huge roof band above and continued up and left against the grain.

Jim Beyer, unaffiliated

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