American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Ships Prow, Sarchasm

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Ships Prow, Sarchasm. As reported in last year’s volume, Pat Adams and Jim Redo climbed the three-pitch Bologna Pony (5.12c) on Ships Prow. This was one of the hardest climbs in the Park until Tommy Caldwell upped the ante with a 120-foot direct start that weighs in at 5.14a, and is thus one of the hardest climbs in Colorado. Writes Caldwell, “There are more battles to be fought in doing a climb like Sarchasm. Its distance from the trailhead (five miles or so) is a big incentive to put forth a strong effort with each attempt. The altitude and the almost certain afternoon storms affected the strategy of the climb and lent an extra measure of urgency each day as the clouds rolled in. Several good climbers have said to me that it will be a long time before Sarchasm gets repeated, if ever. I hope this is not the case. The perfect rock and magnificent setting make all the effort more than worthwhile. I will certainly seek similar opportunities.”

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