American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak, Four Pitches, 24 Hours

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Longs Peak, Four Pitches, 24 Hours. In the first week of September, Mic Follari and I completed a new route on the Upper East Face of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. Three brilliant pitches of 5.6-5.8 were done to get to Broadway. Pins were noticed along the way; we later learned that this was the 1956 Glendennings Arête. After reaching Broadway, it is possible to solo up another 400 feet; a short section of 5.7 is encountered upon leaving Broadway, then it is easy fourth to fifth class scrambling. A prominent right-facing dihedral system to the east was taken after the angle increased. The dihedral yields four pitches of 5.9-5.10 climbing. Descent was made via the Loft between Mount Meeker and Longs Peak. The route was named Four Pitches, 24 Hours for humiliating reasons I’d rather not discuss.

Matt Hobbs

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