American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Moab Area, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Moab Area, Various Ascents. Sunshine Wall is an exciting Wingate buttress bordering the northern reaches of Salt Valley, just north of the border of Arches National Park. It is reached by a good dirt road that branches east from U.S. 191 approximately five miles south of 1-70. To enter Salt Valley, take every major right turn after leaving U.S. 191.

Mike Baker, Leslie Henderson, and Wilson Goodrich first visited the area back in May of 1997 and established several routes. Development of routes from 5.8 up on cracks and faces on good rock has progressed steadily since then, mainly due to the efforts of Mike Baker and various partners, yet the place has the potential for many more routes. It is remote, yet accessible with a two-wheel drive, low-clearance vehicle, and is sure to become a popular climbing destination.

James Garrett, Pete “Big Billy” Keane and Brad England made the first ascent of Tower #143, the largest free-standing spire (at 250') in the main cliff area. The route was named Burning Shoes (III 5.9 A2) and was climbed in October. Brad Bond and Steve “Crusher” Bartlett climbed a 200-foot tower a few hundred yards to the east via the two-pitch Dickfour (5.9+ and A2+).

Eric BjØrnstadt

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