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North America, United States, Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Face

Mt. Hood, South Face. A new route was put up on Mt. Hood in Oregon on September 19. Two separate lines in the same general area were climbed, as my partner, Kendall Dewey, and I elected to climb solo, but within close proximity of one another. From Timberline Lodge we made our way up and across the Palmer Glacier to the base of the Steel Cliffs located on the south face of Mt. Hood. We then ascended a 40-55° mixed couloir leading up the Steel Cliffs toward the base of an obvious buttress. From the buttress, we trended west, following a 40-45° face to the base of a steep mixed couloir that leads directly to the top of an obvious ridge- line. Kendall elected to continue climbing the face, while I made my way through the mixed, 40-60° couloir. After meeting at the top of the ridgeline, we continued along a windblown, rimed ridge to a 30-45° face that led to a short exit couloir, eventually reaching the top of the Wy’east Face and on to the summit. The entire route took 12 hours car-to-car. Due to the length and consistent steepness of the route, parties may elect to bivy. An ideal bivy would be at the top of the ridgeline that leads to the windblown, rimed ridge mentioned above. Cold weather and many freeze-thaws are mandatory for making this route safe.

Blair Williams