American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Southern Cordillera Real, Tiquimani, New Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Tiquimani, New Route. In August, 1997, Spaniard Pere Vilarasau soloed the imposing Tiquimani in an impressive five hours round-trip. The 5519-meter mountain northeast of Huayna Potosí (misnamed Cerro Illampu on the IGM maps) has seen few ascents in recent years due to increasingly thin conditions. From a camp ten minutes from the face, Vilarasau climbed 50° scree to a 100-meter mixed (V 80-90°) section to reach a 50°, then 70-80° section to the col on the ridge. He then followed the ridge to the summit with one abseil before the last 100 meters (III) up to the summit. He descended the same route. The snow and ice were good, but the rock was very poor.

Yossi Brain, United Kingdom

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