American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Huayna Potosí, East Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Huayna Potosí, East Face. On August 19, 1997, in a 17-hour round trip, Marcos Barlena (Chile) and Eric Winandy (Belgium) climbed a route to the right of the classic Vía de los Franceses, staying below the southeast ridge of Huayna Potosí's Pico Sur. They climbed an ice section (55°) to reach a IV-V rock section that brought them to a 55-60° névé section. A second rock band (IV) brought them to the 50-55° snow ridge to the right (east) of Huayna Potosí's South Peak. Descent was made to the north and then down to the normal route.

The Chilean-Belgian route follows a line below the Bordas-Muñoz route, which joins the southeast ridge in the middle, before the rock section.

Yossi Brain, United Kingdom

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