American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Northern Apolobamba, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Northern Apolobamba, Various Ascents. A German expedition from Forchheim, with Bolivian guide Aldo Riveros, made a number of first ascents in the northern Apolobamba in 1997. They established a base camp at 4600 meters on August 19 to the east of Paso Lusuni, which lies to the north of the Chaupi Orco area. On August 24, the first of two parties set off and climbed Pt. 5400m immediately to the south of Paso Lusuni and continued south to put in a high camp at 5330 meters. The next day, they continued south along the ridge and crossed Pt. 5830 (called Angelicum and first climbed by an Italian expedition in 1958) to reach Chaupi Orco Norte. A second party followed the same route one day later. After establishing a second high camp to the north of base camp at 5200 meters, they climbed Pts. 5150, 5285, 5220, 5350 and 5300 from August 27-31, 1997—all first ascents. These peaks lie on the ridge running north of Paso Lusuni, which marks the Bolivia-Peru border. They then returned to Base Camp and on September 1-2, 1997, climbed Pts. 5500, 5070 and 5050, lying to the south of Base Camp and also first ascents. German members of the expedition were Klaus Köberle, Franz Kraft, Alexandra Langer, Ralf Meßbacher, Matthias Schaffland, Angelika Schmidl, Barbara Schübel, Michael Taumann and Hendrik Wagenseil. They produced an excellent expedition report in German.

Yossi Brain, United Kingdom

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