American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Chaupi Orco Area, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Chaupi Orco Area, Various Ascents. A 19-strong German Alpine Club Youth expedition (JDAV), accompanied by Bolivian guide Aldo Riveros, made a number of first ascents and new routes in the Chaupi Orco area from August 14-20, 1995. On the ridge to the northeast of Chaupi Orco (peaks listed left to right as you see them from the glacier below Chaupi Orco): a new route on Hanako (5720m) via the southwest face (max. 60°, 200m); the first ascent of Tunto Potosí (5500m) via the southwest face (max. 70°, 220m; descent was made to the south along the ridge toward Ramatoc, then directly to the glacier from the lowest point on the ridge); a new route on Ramatoc (5550m); the first ascent of Sabe (5600m) via the southwest face (max. 80°, 200m; descent was made along the ridge north to Mato and then directly to the glacier); a new route on Chaupi Orco (6044m, which they named Chaupi Orco Sur and gave a height of 6088m) by going west up and over the ridge running southeast of Chaupi Orco to set up a high camp at 5700 meters and then climbing from the south; and a new route on Chaupi Orco Norte (6000m) via the east face (max. 60°, 500m). The expedition produced a detailed report in German with excellent topo shots.

Yossi Brain, United Kingdom

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