AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Donald D. McIntyre, 1946-1997



Those of us who were friends and family of Don McIntyre were shocked and profoundly saddened by the news that he suffered a fatal fall into a crevasse while descending from the summit of Mt. Ranier on July 29. Don and his climbing partner and close friend, Joel Koury, had ascended the difficult Liberty Ridge route the previous day. Joel was only slightly injured falling into the same crevasse.

Don had an infectious enthusiasm and love of mountaineering. All of us who climbed with him enjoyed the time we spent, whether it was stormbound in a tent or a beautiful day reaching the summit. Trading stories and laughs with Don was the best part of any trip.

Don was an accomplished and prolific mountaineer. During his 20-year career, he led or participated in 15 international expeditions to mountains in Alaska, Peru, Tibet, Mexico, Ecuador, Bolivia, Nepal, the Soviet Union, and the Swiss Alps. He reached the summits of Changtse, the north peak of Mt. Everest, Denali in Alaska, the Matterhorn and the Eiger in Switzerland, and Peak Communism in the Soviet Union, among many others. A long-time member of the American Alpine Club and more recently a professional member of the American Mountain Guides Association, he had started on a new career as a mountain guide after retiring from a distinguished career in service to his country. After serving a combat tour in Vietnam in the United States Air Force, he completed a Bachelor’s degree at the University of Florida and then a Master’s degree in education at Wayne State University. Over the next 27 years he held various security and investigative posts with the Department of Energy, working his way to Director of Counter Intelligence in charge of security for nuclear weapons, an extremely sensitive and important position.

Don was a devoted husband and father and is survived by his wife, Linda, in Reno, Nevada, his two children, Michael in San Francisco and Deanna in New York City, his mother, Sarah Jane, and two sisters, Lisa Houston and Kris Paul, all from Orlando, Florida.

John G. Cleary