American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin Region, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Karavshin Region, Various Ascents. It was reported that the British team of Paul Pritchard, Dave Green, Johnny Dawes and Noel Craine visited the Ak-Su valley in September, making some notable ascents. They began by repeating the Donahue/Harvey route Black Magic on the Middle Pyramid. Green and Pritchard then climbed a new route on the rock formation to the right of Pik Slesova, fixing six pitches over five days on the west face before committing to the route. The first six pitches were the crux, and also treated the men to a broken thumb (Green) incurred while drilling a hook placement, 5.11 climbing with a hook for protection (Pritchard), and a 5.12 traverse (Pritchard). From the top of their fixed lines they climbed another 700 meters up easier ground (5.7) to the top. They called their 1200-meter line The Great Game (5.12b), and called the wall it was on the Wall of Dykes. (High Mountain Sports 182)

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