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Asia, Pakistan, Central Karakoram, Gasherbrum II, First Iranian Ascent

Gasherbrum II, First Iranian Ascent. Gasherbrum II was the first 8000-meter peak organized and climbed independently by Iranians. The ascent was via the normal route from the south in Pakistan. We set up four camps on the ascent: Base Camp (5200m), CI (5950m), CII (6500m), CIII (6800m), and CIV (7400m). The expedition reached Base Camp on June 26, and 14 days later reached the summit. They started the last attempt at 2 a.m. and in ten hours, at 12:06 p.m., three members (Rasool Naghavi, Hammid Olanj, leader, and Hassan Najarian) stood on the summit. The second group (Dr. Bayatani, leader, Bahmman Rostami, and Ibrahim Shekhi) started at 1 a.m.; at 5 a.m. they reached 7700 meters, but because of bad weather and heavy snow, and following the orders of the expedition leader, they returned to camp IV. The other members of the expedition were Sadegh Aghajani (leader); Dr. Shahbazi (physician); Mohssen Noori, Mohammad Noori, and Hassan Nejatian. We also are preparing for Everest in spring, 1998.

Sadegh Aghajani, I.R.I.M.F/President