AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistan, Central Karakoram, Hainablak, Ascent

hHainablak, Ascent. Hainablak is the prominent granite aiguille named by Ardito Desio in 1929 during his exploratory reconnaissance up the Baltoro Glacier. The tower, which can be seen in in this journal on page 25 and in AAJ 1997 on page 322 behind the climber (mis-captioned as Chuck Boyd; it is actually Greg Foweraker) as he ascends fixed lines on Shipton Spire, is west of Uli Biaho and hides Shipton Spire from most viewpoints. It was reported that Hungarians Gabor Berecz and Oskar Nadasdi and German Thomas Tivader visited the Shipton Spire area a bit earlier than Synnott and Ogden. According to various reports, including that from a Liaison Officer at Trango Base Camp who had talked with the climbers as they were walking out, the trio had spent three weeks climbing 21 pitches on the splendid granite of the slightly lower “East Tower” but had not reached the summit. Seven copperheads and 17 bolts were placed with the maximum difficulties rated at 5.10 and A4. (High Mountain Sports 183)