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Asia, Pakistan, Western Karakoram, Bolocho I, Bolocho V, and Bolocho VI, First Ascents

Bolocho I, Bolocho V, and Bolocho VI, First Ascents. The British team of Stuart Muir and Dave Wilkinson were reported to have made ascents of three virgin peaks south of the Hispar Glacier during July and August. They began with a 5240-meter peak they called Bolocho V, climbing it by its east ridge and encountering one pitch of Scottish III/4 (the rest was easy snow). They then started out for Bolocho I, a peak Wilkinson had seen in 1995 while climbing Haramosh II. They made it to a col (5300m) at the base of the north ridge, but a stretch of bad weather forced them back to base camp for five more days. When the weather cleared, they made it back to the col and proceeded up the 55° ridge (which was covered in up to a foot of fresh snow). They continued along the heavily corniced summit ridge, achieving the summit at 9 a.m. via a steep gully (Scottish IV/5) and easier ground to the top. They descended during the morning and evening, spent a day at high camp, and reached base camp on August 9.

On the 14th, the pair was joined by teammates Andy Forsyth and their base camp assistant, Fidali, on a climb of Bolocho VI (5200m) via snow and a 35° icy slope. (High Mountain Sports 183)