AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistan, Western Karakoram, Spantik, Ascents

Spantik, Ascents. Frenchman Daniel Petraud climbed Spantik (7027m) twice, the first time on August 15 with three other climbers. He then went on to scale the peak another time, following the ridge all the way from base camp to top and back on August 18-19 in 16 hours. “We first went up the Normal Route (southwest) behind the ridge. Later I went up alone, starting on August 18 at 8 p.m. It took me ten hours to reach the top and the next day at noon I was back at Base Camp. The entire time involved was 16 hours. The ridge is much safer than the Normal Route.” The expedition took 11 days in all from Base Camp to top and back. All the climbers except the leader were visiting Pakistan for the first time. The summitters were: Daniel Petraud (leader), Dr. Annie Delale (expedition doctor), Laurent Vivier and Patrick Variot. The expedition made Base Camp at 4380 metres, Camp I at 4830 meters, Camp II at 5550 meters, Camp III at 6300 meters. The expedition used 330 meters of fixed ropes.

Asem Mustafa Awan, The Nation, Pakistan