American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Hindu Kush, Karambar Region, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Karambar Region, Various Ascents. The Montecchio Maggiore section of the Club Alpino Italiano spent from July 22 to August 27 in the Karambar Valley north of Chitral. They found no indication in their documents of any preceding alpine activity in the area, and found no traces of previous passage during their climbs. During their stay, they made ascents of the following: Aorat Zon (4960m), the summit of which was reached on July 27 by nine alpinists and on August 8 by another five; Ana Sar (5630m), the summit of which was reached via the white ridge that rises from the north out of the eastern branch of the Zhoe Sar Glacier. Claudio Meggiolaro, Augusto Pagliarusco, Alberto Urbani and Riccardo Zanini used Camp “A” to make the ascent, which was long and difficult, involving ice and mixed climbing (60-65°). The ascent took 24 hours of non-stop climbing.

Sub Vicum Sar (5640m) was climbed on August 8 by Alession Gualdo and Mirco Scarsa. Chota Pahad Sar (5660m), the highest peak in the Karambar area, was climbed by Alberto Urbani, Riccardo Zanini, Giampaolo Visona with Ruggero and Almuth Zanini on August 7. The team also made ascents of Lupsuk Sar (5645m); Dosti Sar (5480m); Chota Sar (5150m); Scaphoydes Sar (5425m); Young Climbers Sar (5415m); Pachas Sal Sar (5380m); and Karambar Tso Sar (5520m).

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