American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Gimmegela, Third Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Gimmegela, Third Ascent. It was reported that a 14-man British Services expedition made the third ascent of Gimmegela (7350m) via the southwest ridge. The team (Pat Parsons, leader, Rob Magowan, Tug Wilson, Huan Davies, Nigel Lane Neil Peacock, Bob Ewen, Larry Foden, Marty Hallet, Callum Weeks, Dave Sheridan, Andy Gibson, Paul Hart, Ted Atkins) set up base camp at Pangpema, the traditional base-camp site for Kangchenjunga ascents on the north side, and set up ABC six kilometers to the northeast at the foot of Gimmegela’s southwest ridge. The climbing from CI (5580m) to CII (6400m) proved difficult, involving 800 meters of hard mixed climbing (HS/Scottish 3) up shattered blocks and loose slate. Inobvious route- finding higher up led to a number of dead-ends before an ice gully (Scottish IV) was climbed to where the ridge eased off in angle. From there the team followed the ridge crest, finding good climbing and increasing winds, a gust of which blew Hart completely off the crest (he was held by his partner). After two more camps, the summit was reached on May 10 by Lane and Peacock. On the 12th, Aktins, Foden, Magowan and Wilson followed. The team stripped all ropes and departed base camp on May 18. (High Mountain Sports 179)

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