Nepalese Himalaya, Various Activity in the Post-Monsoon Season. On Ama Dablam, 72 climbers from all but one of 12 teams summitted via the same narrow southwest ridge; there were so many people on the ridge that they had to pitch their tents at odd spots up and down the route or skip some camps altogether.

Several expeditions this autumn came in for criticism for poor leadership or organization. A disastrous attempt by four Czechs and three Slovakians on Pumori ended in the fatal fall (see below) by three only moderately skilled Slovakians. They had been climbing without Sherpas and during the absence of their sick Czech leader, Michael Brunner, who was not a professional guide in any case. A Spaniard at a nearby base camp praised the Slovenians and Mexican for an astonishingly fast climb to rescue the man who survived; they are credited with saving his life.

Elizabeth Hawley