American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, West Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Ama Dablam, West Ridge. Second place in the High Altitude Class of the Russian Climbing Competitions went to the team consisting of B. Ceducov (leader), E. Vinogradskie, N. Zakapov, V. Kapataev, A. Karlov, V. Lebedev, V. Pershin, and G. Tortladze for an ascent of Ama Dablam. The climbers traveled from Kathmandu to Lukla by helicopter, then by caravan through Namche Bazaar, Tyangboche and Pangboche to base camp at 4500 meters beneath the west face of Ama Dablam. On the ridge were numerous cornices and snowy mushrooms. The danger of the crumbling cornices took away the climbers’ physical and mental strength. One participant was blown by the wind like a spruce tree, characteristic of the Himalaya’s steep, snowy landscape. The team also included Vladimer Laratayev from Divnogarsk, who had a few amputated fingers and toes.

Vladimir Shataev, Russian Mountaineering Federation

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