Newly Opened Peaks in the Nepal Himalaya. The Ministry of Tourism has opened 19 of the less popular Expeditions Peaks to mark the celebration of Visit Nepal Year 1998. These peaks are free of charge in 1998 and 1999, though a Sirdar and permission from the Nepal Mountaineering Association still are required.
1. Changla (6563m)
2. Nala Kankar (6062m)
3. Jethi Bahurani (6850m)
4. Tripura Hiunchuli (6563m)
5. Hongde (6556m)
6. Jagdula Peak (5764m)
7. Shey Shikhar (6139m)
8. Kande Hiunchuli (6627m)
9. Kanjiroba (6883m)
10. Nampa (6755m)
11. Sisne (5849m)
12. Fimkof West (6645m)
13. Nampa South (6580m)
14. Raksha Urai (6593m)
15. Saipal East (6882m)
16. Surma Sarovar (6523m)
17. Tso Karpo (6518m)
18. Kagmara (5960m)
19. Api West (7100m)
The following peaks are free from peak fees and the need for a Liason Officer in 1999, though permission from the Ministry of Tourism still is required.
Naya Kanga* (5863m)
Yala Peak (5732m)
Gokyo Ri (5450m)
Ramtang (6601 m)
Tengkoma (6215 m)
*As we go to press, Naya Kanga has been deleted from the list. We are not sure of its status at this time. Please check with the Ministry of Tourism before making any arrangements.
Union Internationale Des Associations D’Alpinisme (UIAA) Recommended Code of Practice for High Altitude Guided Commercial Expeditions. The UIAA has adopted the following recommendations for high altitude guided expeditions:
1. Definition. This code applies specifically to commercial operators attempting 8000-meter or other comparable peaks that offer to guide or accompany climbers above base camp and to operators who offer more limited facilities. It also may concern operators who supply transport, etc. to base camp, and that also may supply base camp services and High Altitude Porters.
2. Rationale. A variety of organizations offer to take clients on 8000-meter peaks. They vary from those that provide a full service to the summit or nearly to the summit, to those that offer minimal support for clients above base camp. At the present moment, however, it is difficult for clients to deduce from brochures exactly what is offered in terms of guiding and support, and whether it corresponds to their needs. This code supplies clients with pointers to assist them in making an informed choice.
3. High Altitude Warning. Mountaineers climbing at very high altitude, especially above 8000 meters, are at the limit of their mental and physical powers and may not be capable of assisting others as has always been traditional in mountaineering. This fact is of particular importance to mountaineers of limited experience who rely on professional guides to bring them safely up and down 8000-meter peaks. They should be made aware that the risks involved in climbing 8000-meter peaks are such that a high degree of self-reliance is always necessary.
1. The leader or chief guide and as many as possible of the guides should have high-altitude experience appropriate to the altitude of the peak to be climbed. There is no qualification appropriate to high-altitude guiding, so the term “guide” does not imply that the person holds a professional qualification. Clients can judge only from the previous experience of the guides, who may be Westerners, Sherpas or other local mountaineers.
2. The guiding and portering staff on the mountain and the material supplied must be adequate for the aims of the party and stated level of service offered.
1. A doctor in the party is very desirable, but at the very least, advance arrangements must be made for medical help. Advance arrangements also must be made for evacuation assistance in case of emergency.
2. The minimum safety equipment available must be walkie-talkie radios and recommended medical supplies.
3. Advertising must give a true picture of all the difficulties and dangers involved and avoid promising the impossible. Biographical information about the guiding team should be included.
4. The client must truthfully reveal his experience, medical history, etc., to the organizer so that the organizer can make an informed choice about the potential client.
5. Information supplied in advance should include a clear statement of the guiding, porterage and equipment which will be supplied by the organizer, together with details of the clothing and equipment to be supplied by the client.
6. Operators and clients must take account of the UIAA Environmental Objectives and Guidelines and follow the UIAA Expeditions Code of Ethics.
The UIAA Expeditions Committee