American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentine Patagonia, Various Activities

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Argentine Patagonia, Various Activities. The 1997-98 climbing season in Patagonia began in typical fashion, with frustrated climbers sitting in huts for most of November, December, and January. However, an unprecedented three-week weather window in February enabled many teams to climb impressive routes in the Fitz Roy regions.

Argentinians David Albert and Gatito Dura climbed the 1974 British route (5.10+, 13 pitches) on Rafael Jaurez in late January. Gatito followed this up with a rapid rope-solo ascent of Aguja de la S. He then teamed up with Albert for an ascent of Poincenot’s Whillian’s route. On the summit, the team met up with Gatito’s brother Marco Dura, and a Spaniard who had just made the third ascent of the lengthy Carrington-Rouse Route (5.10). Finally, on February 18, David Albert and Marco and Gatito Dura climbed the Keamey-Harrington route (5.10+) on the north face of St. Exupery, in 26 hours round-trip from the Polish Camp.

Mark Synnott

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