American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Slovenian Activity

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Cordillera Blanca, Slovenian Activity. Meta Boncelj made a ski descent from the summit of Pisco (5752m) on July 14. She then made a ski descent of Chopicalci (6350m) via the normal route from 6200 meters on July 22. This was the highest Slovenian female ski descent to date. On the east face of Cayesh (5721m), Grega Lacen and Peter Mežnar made a variation to the 1983 American route, calling it Tretji Svet (ice VI, rock F5c, 950m), on July 17-18. The ascent was done in alpine style and they rappelled down the route. They reported hard and dangerous mixed climbing with bad protection. The new route strays right from the American route, joins it in the middle of the face, follows it for four pitches, and then continues directly toward the summit. Prior to the ascent, they also attempted a completely independent line to the left, but were stopped by an overhanging rock barrier without natural cracks. The rock was so hard that even bolting was almost impossible.

Miha Peternel, Planinska zveza Slovenije

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