American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chopicalqui, North Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Chopicalqui, North Ridge. It was reported that a 12-man Italian team made the first integral ascent of the north ridge of Chopicalqui (6345m). Tarcisco Bello and Giuseppe Tararan reached the main summit on August 1,1996. The team began seiging the lower section of the north ridge to the northerly foresummit on July 21. Ropes were fixed and three camps established starting from the col at 5050 meters. The climbing involved friable rock down low (5.4- 5.5) and a problematic serac above Camp II (30m of 85-90° ice, once section 95°). The two climbers left Camp III (5970m) on July 30, making two more camps before reaching the summit. They descended the 1932 Southwest Ridge route. (High Mountain Sports 177)

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.