American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell, Torssuqatoq Spires, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Torssuqatoq Spires, Various Ascents. It was reported that Andy and Pete Benson, Kenton Cool and A1 Powell (U.K.) visited the Torssuqatoq Spires, a short distance southeast of Tasermiut Fjord, making some 18 new routes up to 800 meters in length. They established base camp on July 29, then split into pairs. On August 1, Cool and Powell made the second ascent of Magic Line via a new line up the north ridge (D- V+, 300m). The Bensons climbed the 400-meter southwest face of Blizzard Ridge. Cool and Powell climbed the south face of Maujit Qaqarssuasia via the route Rampart (TD/TD+ VII, 800m), stopping shy of the summit while on the west ridge in the face of a storm. They descended the ridge and then the north face. On the Prow, Cool and Powell climbed Portion Control (VII, 375m), a seven-pitch line on excellent gneiss. On August 9, the Bensons climbed the south couloir and ridge to the main summit of Maujit Qaqarssuasia in 11 hours (D-). Cool and Powell climbed the 14-pitch Colour of Magic (ED2 VII Al, 750m) on the 1550-meter northeast-facing granite wall of Navianarpoq in 15 hours, bivouacking on the summit and descending the north flank the next day. The Bensons, meanwhile, climbed The Totem, a finger of rock on the ridge north of Magic Arrow, employing aid (Al) to make the ascent. On August 13-14, they climbed the right-hand tower of Navianarpoq (a.k.a. the Wall of Early Morning Light) via Steel Drum (ED2, 600m) in 14 hours. Cool and Powell climbed Totty (ED2 VII+, 750m) on Maujit Qaqarssuasia, then the south flank of Agdlerussakasit (1763m) at AD+. Two more routes on the Prow were climbed as well: Deathflake 2000 (E4, 5c) by Cool and Powell, and Skirmish (D HVS, 400m) by Benson and Benson. The team reported much scope for new routes in the area, but stressed that minimum-impact style is to be employed on any new activity. (High Mountain Sports 186)

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.