American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, Mont Forel Area, Various Activity

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Mont Forel Area, Various Activity. It was reported that a CAF expedition with the goal of making the 50th anniversary of the Expeditions Polaires Francaises to Mont Forel flew to the Femstjernen Glacier via the Bell 212 helicopter provided by Tangent Expeditions. They made base camp two kilometers southeast of the Bjornepas (ca. 2100m), were pinned down by bad weather, then, on August 5, ascended Mont Forel (3360m) via the normal Southeast Ridge route, summitting at 1 p.m. They returned to base camp by 5 p.m. and took two days to ski back to a rendezvous with the helicopter. A decision was made to make only one flight out, which forced the “highly controversial decision” to abandon a load of equipment on the Femstjernen Glacier, very much in contrast to efforts of all other visitors to maintain the pristine character of the Arctic environment.

A Norwegian group led by Eirik Tryti landed on the Fenrisgletscher near the end of July and, on August 4, made an ascent of Nordposten. They then made three possible first ascents, all around ca. 3050 meters high, in the Bredekuppel area in the vicinity of N66° 54' W36° 53'. Afterward, they climbed two peaks further to the south before moving to the northeast of Forel. On August 7, they climbed the northeast flank to gain the col, from which they climbed the standard Southeast Ridge, reaching the summit after five hours of climbing. The same day, Jorn Hauge made the first known solo of the mountain when he followed the team’s footprints, catching up to them on the last pitch. All climbers were able to follow the tracks of the French group, which had climbed the mountain two days before.

On August 8, five members of the group climbed Sydbjerg via the north ridge from the north col, finding two pitches of mixed climbing and easy scrambling. The next day, the team made a straightforward ascent of Perfektnunatak. (High Mountain Sports 181)

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