American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Endicott Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Endicott Mountains. Peak 6800 is one of the most astonishing limestone walls in the Brooks Range. It stands above a beautiful canyon on the upper western fork of the Itkillik River, immediately east of the Cocked Hat Glacier. Approaching from Anaktuvuk Pass, we were exploring the various terraced headwalls and canyons of the eastern Endicotts. We crossed Nanushuk Glacier to a pass into the upper Itkillik. Exploring the glaciers, shelves and lakes along the way, we eventually set up camp eight miles below that pass. Peak 6800 was approached initially from the celebrated canyon under the north face. We ascended at a point where this canyon turns south into the glacier. Crossing this glacier, we reached the pass under the south face of 6800. We were to find the summit by this face. Continuing east through the southern canyon, we made a complete circumnavigation of the massif. Members included Nicholas Stielau, Charles Stielau, Martha Davis, Ronald Fried, Howard Kamentsky and the customary leaders, Dr. Ruthmary Deuel and me.

Dennis Schmitt

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