American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Montana, Glacier National Park, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Glacier National Park, Various Ascents. Beginning in the winter of 1995-96, new ice routes have been discovered and climbed in Glacier National Park. The first area to be explored was the southwest face on Mt. Cannon. Kirby Spangler and Marc Venery climbed Cannon Fodder, which featured 2,000 feet of moderate ice and steep snow, ending in two pitches of WI4. January, 1997, brought good weather and stable snow, allowing the insatiable Spangler and Venery to climb Looking Up a Loaded Barrel (WI4, 800') and Lost in a Crowd (WI4, 1,200'), both on Cannon. Spangler also soloed Goat Chaser (IV WI3, 500') on the south shoulder of Cannon in March.

The Snyder Lakes Basin also was found to have excellent potential for new routes. Brain Stem (WI5,200') on the south slopes of Mt. Brown is the farthest climb left in a series of three

lines. The middle line, Controlled Burn (WI4, 200'), was first climbed by Lane Johnson and John Runge sometime in the early ’90s. The right line (WI3+, 200') also was climbed; very old slings were found at the top. On the north face of Edwards, Lane Johnson and John Runge climbed A Six Pack and Nothing To Do (WI3) in the massive 1,400-foot gully that splits the face. Soon after, Jim Earl and Chris Trimble climbed Baby Semmler (WI4+, 450'), just left of the main gully. Then in March, Johnson and Spangler climbed two difficult lines, producing Spinal Tap (5.7 WI5, 800') and The Missing Tooth (WI5 A2+, 450').

Ryan Hokanson, unaffiliated

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.