North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle Teton, No Cumbre, No Ruta

Publication Year: 1998.

Middle Teton, No Cumbre, No Ruta. On July 14, Alex Lowe and I climbed No Cumbre, No Ruta (WI5 M7 A0, 240 m) on the north face of the Middle Teton. From the Lower Saddle, approach the north face as you would for the Goodrich Chimney and/or the Jackson- Woodmency Dihedral. The route is the obvious chimney to the right of the Goodrich route. The route was named in response and protest to bogus debates circling the climbing community that new routes must top out on true summits of a claimed peak or they do not and should not exist. Hence, we did not go to the summit of the Middle. One hell of a good route, though.

Travis Spitzer