American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Right Twin, Paca-Lolo Dreams

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Right Twin, Paca-Lolo Dreams. From October 15-October 20, Brad Bond, Bryan Smith and I climbed a new route, Paca-Lolo Dreams (V 5.9 A3-, seven pitches) about 350 feet right of Peyote Dreams. The climb begins in a 5.9 hand crack that had been climbed previously. Another pitch of free climbing and a pitch of aid gain the base of a major comer with a hand crack. This comer pitch is shared with Lost in Transit, a route that begins to the right of Paca- Lolo Dreams. After the major comer, three quality sustained aid pitches climb some splitter thin cracks. We placed six anchor bolts and six aid bolts in addition to drilling two incomplete holes for aid. I would encourage subsequent parties to complete the drilling of the two holes on pitch 5 and fill them with half-inch angles. No bolts were placed at belays shared with other routes (i.e., the first pitch and the corner of Lost in Transit).

Boulos Ayad, unaffiliated

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