American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Finger Rock, Boldfinger

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Finger Rock, Boldfinger. A long time ago (1970s?), Fred Beckey and crew climbed a route on the south side of Finger Rock, which is a short drive/hike from the Wishon Reservoir. On the east face of Finger Rock are a couple distinct features. There is an obvious diagonal line of weakness going up from the lower left to upper right. This ends below an ominous, rust-colored overhanging headwall chock-full of wild huecos, chicken heads and plate flakes in the center of the east face. This featured section is directly above several gigantic boulders on the slope below the east face. Climb up the diagonal ramp for two pitches until directly below the wild central headwall above a short (30’) chimney. Belay at a flake covered in bird droppings. The next pitch is steep and wild, heading up and right through the incredible featured headwall. It ends on a huge ledge 50 feet below the top. Descent is third class off the back (north) side. Mark Leffler and I did the route in July, calling it Boldfinger (5.10+, three pitches).

Richard Leversee

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