American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Hoffman, North Face, Meteor Shower

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Mt. Hoffman, North Face, Meteor Shower. The north face of Mt. Hoffman is a wide face with many potential lines. In August, Sarah Schneider and I established what we believe to be the fourth technical route on the face, the farthest left one done to date. It follows the second continuous crack system from the left edge of the face (there are two lesser faces left of the “main” north face. Both of these have potential lines, but I don’t believe any routes have been done here yet). A prominent overhanging off width was passed via a traverse right about 150 feet up. The climbing then went up and left on flakes to regain the crack above the off width. In general, the route, Meteor Shower (III, 5.10a), slants slightly right for much of its length. The route involved four pitches, with the crux—a fist crack through a small roof—on the last one. Poor rock, continuous climbing and dicey protection and anchors seemed to be the norm on this potentially dangerous route.

Alan Bartlett, unaffiliated

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