Bubbs Creek Wall, Samurai Warrior
California, Sierra Nevada
Over three days in September, Dave Nettle and I established a new route on Bubbs Creek Wall in Kings Canyon. Samurai Warrior (V 5.11 A1) follows the first pitch and a half of Crystal Bonzai before taking an independent line to the right. All but two of the 14 pitches are 5.10 or harder, and a 60-meter rope is required. One short pendulum and 50 feet of bathooks are the extent of the aid. The first half of the route follows corners up to a prominent right-leaning straight-in crack. The route then goes through the brown headwall via a finger crack to a scenic hanging bivy. The rest of the climb is mostly bolt-protected face climbing with knobs, mantles and friction. It is a beautiful, varied, user- friendly backcountry route.