American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Oregon, Second Spire, First Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1998

Second Spire, First Ascent. On August 3, Rob Morgan and I made the first ascent of Second Spire in four pitches (5.7 R Al) from a base camp at Jefferson Lake in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness, Oregon. This is the second of several striking spires southeast of Jefferson Lake and is readily apparent from the trail. We ascended the east face, which involved 300 feet or so of technical climbing on sometimes loose volcanic rock. We followed a prominent gully from tree line, and then the line of least resistance and best rock. The approach is about six miles on the Jefferson Lake Trail, which starts near Camp Sherman. The first of these spires would be an excellent objective for those who enjoy airy, insecure aid climbing. Routes on the north or west faces of these spires would be considerably longer—probably more than 500 feet.

Jeff McCarthy, Canada

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