American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Shishapangma, Ascent and Tragedy

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Shishcipangma, Ascent and Tragedy. Josu Bereziartua, Félix and Alberto Inurrategi arrived at BC together with the expedition from Alava formed by Luis Angel Rojo, Juan Vallejo, Juanito Oiarzabal and Jose Luis Zuloaga. On September 16 during an acclimatization session in the Ice Tooth an avalanche hit the members of the group, causing the death of Jose Luis Zuloaga and serious injuries to Juanito Oiarzabal. The expedition from Alava give up the Shishapangma project.

On October 9, after various consecutive days of bad weather, we were finally able to spend the night at the bottom of the wall. Josu, Félix and Alberto set off on October 10 and bivouacked at 7100 meters in the same place where the English had bivied. The next day we completed the route via the main corridor, reaching the summit at 3:30 (Nepalese time) in fantastic weather, with barely any wind and complete visibility. On our way down we bivouacked at 7800 meters, arriving at BC the next day following the English descent route. On October 13 we left BC.

Félix and Alberto IÑurrategi, Spain

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